Garage Door Won't Open
You're stuck in the driveway or trapped in the garage. Let's get this figured out. Most garage door problems are either dead simple or genuinely dangerous... there's not a lot of middle ground. Here's how to tell which one you're dealing with.
What to Check Before You Call Someone
Check the power
Look at the opener unit on the ceiling. Is the light on? Someone might have unplugged it, or the outlet could be dead. Check the GFCI outlet if there is one... the reset button might have tripped.
Fix: Plug it back in or reset the GFCI outlet. Also check the circuit breaker in your electrical panel. If someone was working in the garage, they might have unplugged it and forgot.
Try the wall button
If the remote won't work but the wall-mounted button inside the garage does, the problem is the remote... not the opener or the door itself.
Fix: Replace the batteries in the remote. If that doesn't work, reprogram the remote (check your opener manual for the learn button on the unit). Remotes do just die after a few years.
Check the safety sensors
There are two small sensors at the bottom of the door tracks, one on each side. They shoot an infrared beam across the opening. If something is blocking the beam, or if they're bumped out of alignment, the door will close a few inches then reverse... or refuse to close at all. Most openers flash the overhead light when sensors are the issue.
Fix: Make sure nothing is blocking the sensors. Clean the lenses with a dry cloth. Check that both sensors have a steady light (not blinking). If one is blinking, gently adjust it until the light goes steady... they need to be pointed directly at each other.
Look for track obstructions
Inspect the metal tracks on both sides of the door. Look for dents, debris, or anything that would prevent the rollers from moving freely. Also check if the tracks are still properly aligned and bolted to the wall.
Fix: Remove any debris. Small dents in the track can sometimes be tapped out carefully with a rubber mallet. If the track is badly bent or separated from the wall, call a pro.
Check if the door is locked or the emergency release is engaged
Some garage doors have a manual lock (a handle in the center you twist). If it's engaged, the opener can't move the door. Also check the emergency release cord (the red handle hanging from the track)... if someone pulled it, the door is disconnected from the opener.
Fix: Unlock the manual lock. To re-engage the emergency release, pull the cord back toward the opener and manually slide the door until the trolley reconnects. You should hear it click.
Look at the springs
There are large springs either above the door (torsion springs) or along the tracks on each side (extension springs). If you see a spring that's clearly broken in half or a gap in a torsion spring coil... that's your problem. The door will feel impossibly heavy.
Fix: DO NOT attempt to fix or replace garage door springs yourself. A torsion spring under tension can cause serious injury or death. This is not an exaggeration. Call a garage door professional. This is a $200-350 repair and they can usually come same day.
When It's Time to Replace
If your opener is 15+ years old and keeps having issues, a new one is $200-400 installed and comes with modern features like smartphone control and battery backup. If the door panels themselves are badly dented, rotting, or coming apart, it's time for a new door.
Read our full Garage Door Opener replacement guide →When to Call a Professional
Always call a pro for broken springs... no exceptions. Also call if the door is off its tracks, the cables are frayed or loose, or if the opener motor runs but the door doesn't move (could be a stripped gear). Spring and cable work is genuinely dangerous for DIYers.
This guide is for informational purposes. For gas leaks, electrical issues, or emergencies, call a licensed professional immediately.